Ren talks me through the selection. “Lush, opulent Krug. This should feel like a down comforter being shaken out and placed onto your tongue.” And later: “Jo Landron Atmosphères is created by the méthode traditionelle, which means it’s made by the usual Champagne techniques, in the Loire Valley.” (Also, on the maker: Jo “has a killer mustache—it goes right out to here!” She uses her fingers to indicate points about three inches from both sides of her mouth.)

By now, Ren and I are navigating the sales floor—well, she’s steering and I’m pushing (and silently praying I don’t accidentally knock it into one of the tables bearing beauty products). We are given the nod that a couple shopping nearby might be looking for some bubbles, so off we go. We meet Elaine, who is visiting from Florida with her fiancé, Ron. Elaine would like some Champagne, but Ron isn’t into that idea. “I’d like some bourbon,” he says, and Ren offers to get him some from the Salon Vert bar.

Meanwhile, Elaine is telling me about her impressions of the store; like Bonnie and Annette before her, this is her first time here. “I have goosebumps, I really do,” she says. “I used to design menswear and so I appreciate every inch of this place. It’s so magnificent, it puts you into a whole other realm. I read about Printemps on Instagram—it was everywhere—and I said to Ron, my forever fiancé, ‘We have to go because this is an experience.’ At this stage of my life, I’m only interested in experiences.”

Elaine also has her eye on a puffy ivory Maison Margiela leather clutch, which senior client advisor Kelvin Matoral has brought out for her to try. Is she into it? “Yeah, and what I am seeing here are things I don’t see everywhere,” Elaine says, “And I don’t know some of these labels, but I like that. Isn’t it wonderful to see new designers? It’s a new voice, a new generation.”

Sculptural, birdcage-like installations house the womenswear selections in the second floor Salon.

Photo: © Gieves Anderson/Courtesy of Printemps

1:30 p.m.: The Salon

One thing that you realize is that when you’re on the sales floor, time begins to move both extremely quickly and in slow motion. What’s key: Patience is the root of all good service, and Kelvin is a very patient man. “I say hello to everyone, I’ll introduce myself, I want everyone to feel seen,” he says. “But I’ll give them their space.” Kelvin, who arrived at Printemps after years at Barneys, Gucci, and Tiffany, guides customers through the fashion on offer. “I’m excited to be here, it’s a breath of fresh air,” he says. “It’s something we’ve needed in New York for a while, ever since Barneys closed.”