These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Friday.

The story behind Conner Ives’ “Protect the Dolls” T-shirt

The night before his February runway show, designer Conner Ives took some transfer paper and quickly made a now-iconic shirt that read, “Protect the Dolls,” with “dolls” referring to trans women. Since wearing the shirt at his show, Ives has received more than 2,500 orders for the £75 ($99) item, with all proceeds going to Trans Lifeline. Celebrities like Troye Sivan, Pedro Pascal and Haider Ackermann have also recently donned the design. Ives got the idea to take his bow in a bespoke graphic tee from Alexander McQueen, who ended his Spring 2006 runway show in a shirt reading, “We Love You Kate” in support of Kate Moss, in the wake of her tabloid-fueled cocaine controversy. {The Washington Post/paywalled}

PerfumeTok criticizes Boy Smells rebrand

Fragrance brand Boy Smells debuted a rebrand this week, swapping out its oversized perfume caps for more conventional proportions, as well as its pink-and-black labels for bicolored bottles, and introducing new gourmand scents. On social media, some consumers have expressed disappointment over the changes: “It goes beyond the scents and the packaging alone and the fact that they were this cool, queer-coded, genderless fragrance company that is now this, sort of, clean girl, very Gen Z, Gen Alpha-appealing brand,” said TikTok user @Michysmells. In a statement shared with Glossy, Boy Smells notes it had the “best week of sales across all channels in four years, our products perform better, they last longer, they’re less expensive and still gay.” {Glossy/paywalled}

Vestiaire Collective’s new campaign spotlights overconsumption

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Vestiaire Collective’s newest marketing campaign depicts piles of textile waste at people’s doorsteps to highlight the growing environmental crisis of overconsumption. Waste is accumulating at record levels and sorting systems are overwhelmed, with a third of a billion packages entering the U.S. from Shein and Temu in 2022. “Fast fashion is no longer out of sight, it’s at our doorstep,” Dounia Wone, chief impact officer of Vestiaire Collective, said in a statement. “This global crisis demands immediate action and the system must be rebuilt from the ground up. Real change begins with challenging the status quo and facing the consequences of overproduction. At Vestiaire Collective, we are committed to this mission and hold all stakeholders accountable.” {Fashionista inbox}

Depop partners with Parsons and FIT on pop-up exhibit

Depop is teaming up with Parsons and the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) for a pop-up fashion exhibition on Saturday, April 19, as part of Depop’s Earth Month initiatives. Depop Student Ambassadors Jake Fucci and Kat Angelides of Parsons and Charlotte Berliner and Allison Mansberger from FIT are curating an exhibition of 10 local upcoming brands such as Shmuie, Micu and Coffeys to be displayed and available to shop. The event will also have performances from local DJs with a full bar and restaurant service on site. The pop-up will be held on Saturday from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. ET at 518 W 27th St. {Fashionista inbox}

LVMH’s Bernard Arnault addresses Trump tariffs, falling share price

Bernard Arnault, France’s richest man and the head of LVMH, was personally invited to Donald Trump’s inauguration and counted the president as a friend. Then, Trump’s tariffs went into effect and LVMH experienced a plunge in its share price. At the LVMH annual general meeting on Thursday, Arnault told shareholders it is up to European leaders to resolve the trade war with Trump “amicably.” Any failure would be “the fault of Brussels,” and would force LVMH to increase U.S. production and “avoid Europe.” Arnault also echoed a suggestion previously made by Elon Musk and called on European politicians to press for the creation of a free-trade zone between Europe and the U.S. {The New York Times/paywalled}

CEOs are on an anti-tariff media blitz

CEOs of small-tomedium-sized e-commerce businesses have been making efforts of get out the message that thousands of companies could go out of business if the current tariffs system stays in place. They’re posting daily on LinkedIn, making the rounds on Bloomberg or writing letters to their representatives in the hopes that the Trump administration will reverse course before it’s too late. Many CEOs share the sentiment that this new system of tariffs isn’t just inconvenient, it’s catastrophic, and it will hurt consumers. {Modern Retail}

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