CEOs, brand founders and formulators are just a few of the power players in the business of beauty. But an often overlooked group is the retail buyers, who are the true gatekeepers in the space. These days, everyone is paying attention to beauty shelves, from mass retailers to indie shops. With all of the options out there, what catches a beauty buyer’s eye? The answer is often what drives trends and themes for the upcoming season.

“We take our cues from what we see on social media, makeup artists and people out and about in the street,” says Nordstrom’s National Beauty Director Autumne West. “How the trends come to life is really interesting. I even see it change from city to city. We have a seat at the table with brands and get to see the new innovation before it hits the market, so it’s like having a crystal ball of the trends to come. Some of the things we’re seeing for spring and summer have been existing, but they’re growing and evolving.”

Social media has sped the trend cycle into warp speed. “Beauty trends and social virality have evolved rapidly, especially with platforms like TikTok and YouTube,” says Trudy Arnold, beauty and home director at Revolve and FWRD. “Trends can now take off at lightning speed, reshaping the industry almost instantly. Social media has also fostered a strong, trusted beauty community where people turn to discover and learn about new products and brands.”

But deciding what goes on shelves requires so much more than following fads. It’s about carefully considering consumer demand and discovering which products are going to resonate most. “The beauty audience is not all one and the same,” says Jessica Matlin, director of beauty and home at Moda Operandi and co-founder and co-host of Fat Mascara, a podcast about beauty culture. “I don’t go out seeking the trends. They show themselves through conversations with people. [I look for] a brand that’s not doing something that has already been done before and is trying to crest the wave, but somebody who is looking to take a chance and has a very clear vision.”

Ahead, luxury beauty buyers predict the trends that we’re sure to see dominating shelves this spring and summer.

The skinification of makeup

“Skin care is important and I love that we’re seeing it in makeup products,” says West. “Take the newest YSL powder blushes, Make Me Blush Bold Blurring Powder Blush. They’re infused with skin care, and you can tell when you apply it because it softly melts into the skin, which you don’t expect from a powder. That trend is not going to go away.”

Filler-less lip plumping

The aesthetic preferences around lips are evolving. “Lip filler is a thing of the past…ish,” notes West. “People still get [injectables], but it’s subtle; it’s not as prominent. And so the trend that I’m seeing, instead of lip filler, is this resurgence in lip plumping glosses and oils. We still want our lips to be defined, but now we’re doing it in a different way: Shiny lips are super big for spring and summer.” West’s favorites in this category are the new YSL Loveshine Plumping Lip Oil Gloss with Hyaluronic Acid, Dior Lip Glow Oil and the Hourglass Phantom Volumizing Lip Glossy Balm because of the hydration they deliver that gives the appearance of fuller lips.

Matlin concurs, saying it’s all about “anything that makes your lips look juicy and delicious. There’s not a soul on earth that doesn’t want lips that look healthy, refreshed, rejuvenated.” She adds, “Not everyone’s a lipstick person, not everyone’s a gloss person, so this is the perfect in-between. Everyone’s busy. You didn’t have to stop what you’re doing. You can apply it while you’re literally running for the subway.”

Whether it’s lip tints or plumpers, the focus is on easy products that can be applied without a mirror. One of Moda Operandi’s top products last year was the Violette_FR Bisou Bomb, and Matlin doesn’t see its popularity slowing down for the seasons ahead. “This was a total champion for our site,” Matlin says. Japanese beauty brand Decorté’s Plumping Lip Serum is also a favorite of hers.

Leveled-up body care

“For body care, there’s space for a lot of innovation there,” Matlin says. “It’s always been the runner-up to face care, and that’s going to be changing. What I’m really excited about is Korean-inspired body peels.” Her rec is Lillis Instant Peel, which goes on like a lotion and then is buffed on your body. (Fashionista’s Beauty + Style Director Steph is also a huge fan.)

Blush is back

“Blush has not gone away,” Matlin says. “People are using blush across generations in a way that I haven’t seen in 20 years.” West sees the blush comeback as an evolution: “I’m so here for the focus on cheeks,” she says. “Blush is still going super hard in all the formats. You’re seeing those powder blushes I talked about that have skin care, but also the blush balms (like Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks Blush Stick), the liquids. It’s this beautiful layering effect. I love that this natural, creamy finish in blushes is here to stay, at least for a minute.” She adds that it’s all about the application: “‘Sunset blush’ is now the new ‘contour blush’, and ‘cold weather girl’ is now ‘boyfriend blush’.”

The Tower 28 Getset Blur + Set Matte Powder Blush, a new introduction to the market, does double duty as a setting powder and blurring blush. “We just launched Tower 28’s new Matte Powder Blushes in the perfect summer shades,” Arnold says.

Skin care goes back to basics

With an overload of options, West predicts a movement back to the classics, such as the Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream. “When I revisit it, it really is magic,” she says. “I don’t want to be into this whole morning shed thing; that’s where it’s over-complicated. The 12-step skin-care routine is kind of gone.” She calls the Augustinus Bader The Light Cream a “newer kind of luxe” and the Eighth Day Reparative Moisturizer an “unsung hero.”

Subtle mascara

If you listen to Gen Z, mascara is out. But Matlin believes it’s just going in a different direction, into a more natural look. “It’s a preference, but because it was so loud, a lot of mascara makers will be presenting some lighter options.” Moda Operandi couldn’t keep the 19/99 Lash Tint Mascara in stock.

At-home treatments

Devices for at-home treatments are surging again, and it’s no wonder why. “They are super easy, instead of having to go somewhere,” says West, who likes LED masks, particularly the Higher Dose Red Light Face Mask. 

She’s also a fan of the Solawave 4-in-1 Skin Care Wand. “It’s like the size of a toothbrush. With any LED [device], if you’re using it a few times a week, you’re going to see those results. Not everyone is into microcurrent, but I swear by my NuFace Trinity+ Smart Advanced Facial Toning Device Starter Kit, and I 100% use it three times a week.”

Hair tool wardrobes that cater to texture

“Hair is so personal,” says West. “Everyone has different texture and style, but in the hair category, we’re still seeing customers gravitating toward all those different tools, whether it’s the Mermade Hair The Double Waver or the Dyson Supersonic Hair Dryer. I have curly hair, so I like Pattern The Blow Dryer because it can go between cold or hot air settings.”

Gourmand perfumes

“Gourmands have not gone away,” says Matlin. “We’ve seen gourmands stick around for the past five years, and they’re so big on social media. There isn’t any sign of them slowing down.” But, she notes, the modern versions are being done “in a much more elevated way. Globally, there’s this huge demand for sweet — I like to call them huggable — fragrances.” One Matlin is particularly excited about is Régime des Fleurs Green Vanille Eau de Parfum, a less sweet vanilla.

“I think you’d be under a rock in our business if you weren’t aware vanillas are everywhere,” West says. “The vanilla trend has not died. It keeps evolving and getting grown-up — vanilla is being paired with rose or coffee and things like that. I’m liking scents that have vanilla, but with a woody base. Tom Ford does a good job making vanilla feel grown up.” She likes to spritz Tom Ford Vanilla Sex and Phlur Vanilla Skin. 

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