Emeric Tchatchoua is on a mission to slow time, taking a trip to the desert for spring. “Our main character is trapped in the desert looking for a way out, and is going round in circles looking for purpose,” said the 3.Paradis designer backstage. “In the desert time goes slowly.”

Far from arid, his setting proved fertile inspiration for cleverly constructed tailoring that featured delicate rippled pleats evoking the movement of the sand, and tailored jackets adorned with diaphanous, sculptural sleeves embroidered with star-like crystals, evoking a mirage.

The opening look, a bomber in a patchwork of suedes in sandy hues, featured the brand’s bird motifs and the message “We are all travelers,” reprised through the collection on fun book clutches or woven leather shoppers. A graphic print of vintage watches featured on shirts and denim, and a heavy coat was embroidered with real-life timepieces. The more elaborate styles were contrasted with bright sporty tone-on-tone silhouettes with trompe l’oeil details and a series of airbrushed designs evoking the setting sun.

Models including French Montana and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac meandered through the sand-strewn venue. The veteran French designer, who wore wristwatch-printed jeans with a neon pink tie and shoes under his trenchcoat, was playing the role of authority. “I play a powerful character, a bit like Anthony Hopkins,” he said before the show, practicing his imperious face and admitting to a bout of nerves. He is an admirer of Tchatchoua’s work. “It’s highly constructed and functional but very poetic, there’s that duality. I love his sensitivity,” he said.

The collection featured a number of collaborations this season, with J.M. Weston for the brightly colored footwear, Vilebrequin for swimming shorts and the estate of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, with well-known motifs from the classic work “Le Petit Prince” featuring on shirts and sweaters.