Can Couture Be Modern? A Look at the Fall 2025 Season


At his Maison Margiela debut, the highlight of the season, Glenn Martens arrived at relevance from the opposite direction. Whereas van Herpen grew algae, Martens played with the veneer of decay, referencing ‘nature morte’ paintings and bricolaged designs, many of which were made from deadstock, which challenged the idea of value.

Martens defied a linear understanding of time through a dialogue with the history of the house. By “resurrecting” existing materials he recognized the symbiosis between past and present (as the Smashing Pumpkins’ song that accompanied the show put it, “the killer in me is the killer in you”), creating a sense of continuity with what came before, both chez Margiela and more broadly in Northern Europe of the Middle Ages.

The designer, who was looking at Gothic cathedrals and spires, which are monuments to creative human endeavor, didn’t shy away from the idea of revealing his process, either. As achingly beautiful as many of the clothes were, this wasn’t an easy show, it grappled with monumentality and mortality. Full-bodied and vital, it was a collection with a beating heart.

Custom Taylor-ed

At the couture, moodboard dressing was taken to the next level.

Image may contain Kim Kardashian Clothing Footwear High Heel Shoe Person Accessories Jewelry Necklace and Adult

Balenciaga, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

Image may contain Elizabeth Taylor Clothing Dress Face Head Person Photography Portrait Dressing Room and Indoors

Elizabeth Taylor in BUtterfield 8, 1960.

Photo: MGM Studios / Getty Images

Image may contain Nancy Cunard Clothing Coat Jacket Adult Person Face Head Photography Portrait and Body Part

Nancy Cunard, 1932

Photo: Bettmann

Image may contain Accessories Jewelry Ornament Adult Person Wedding Body Part Finger Hand Bracelet and Wristwatch

Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

Photographed by Acielle/Style Du Monde

Midsummer Romance

Ethereal white dresses and tops are coming your way.

Image may contain Clothing Dress Fashion Formal Wear Gown Wedding Wedding Gown Adult Person and Accessories

Christian Dior, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Clothing Dress Footwear High Heel Shoe Adult Person Accessories Bag Handbag and Wedding

Ashi Studio, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Blouse Clothing Adult Person Sleeve and Shorts

Chanel, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Person Adult and Wedding

Julie de Libran, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Person Clothing Dress Fashion Formal Wear Gown Wedding Wedding Gown Adult and Standing

Maison Francesco Scognamiglio, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Stefano Galuzzi / Courtesy of Maison Francesco Scognamiglio

Dangerous Liasions

Dress like a latter-day Antoinette in a rococo dress—or like an Antoine in a frock coat.

Image may contain Crystal Renn Fashion Clothing Dress Formal Wear Gown Footwear Shoe Wedding and Wedding Gown

Elie Saab, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Fashion Adult Person Clothing Footwear High Heel Shoe Dress Sandal Accessories and Bracelet

Elie Saab, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Clothing Formal Wear Suit Adult Person and Standing

Christian Dior, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Clothing Footwear High Heel Shoe Adult Person Fashion Coat Electronics Mobile Phone and Phone

Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Image may contain Melchor Múzquiz Art Painting Adult Person Face Head Photography Portrait Clothing and Coat

Rene Savary, Duke of Rovigo.

Photo: Print Collector / Getty Images

Image may contain Alek Wek Tahmasp I Person Adult Clothing Coat Footwear High Heel Shoe and Fashion

Ashi Studio, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com

Belle-Epoque Curves

From the Worth retrospective to the runways, curves rule.

Image may contain Laura Whitmore Adult Person Clothing Footwear High Heel Shoe Glove Accessories and Jewelry

Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Image may contain Fashion Adult Person Clothing Dress Formal Wear Footwear High Heel Shoe and Runway

Ashi Studio, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Monte Melkonian Clothing Glove Chair Furniture Accessories Bag Handbag Person Lamp and Adult

Jean Béraud, Une Soirée, 1878.

Photo: Heritage Images / Getty Images

Image may contain Clothing Long Sleeve Sleeve Coat Adult Person Dress Evening Dress Formal Wear Fashion and Desk

Balenciaga, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

Image may contain Lara Stone Clothing Dress Fashion Formal Wear Evening Dress Gown Adult Person and Footwear

Elie Saab, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

On Form

Couture was a Build-a-Body masterclass.

Image may contain Clothing Dress Person Formal Wear Fashion Evening Dress Gown Wedding and Wedding Gown

Christian Dior, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Isabel Lucas Bill Kenney Clothing Dress Evening Dress Formal Wear Fashion Gown and Footwear

Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Image may contain Ren Liu Vera Wang Hanya Yanagihara Cathy Horyn Clothing Dress Adult Person and Formal Wear

Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Image may contain Aida Nikolaychuk Clothing Costume Person Adult Face and Head

Viktor & Rolf, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

Rare Birds

Designers dress taloned birds of prey as well as songbirds.

Image may contain Person Adult Wedding Clothing Dress Footwear Sandal and Formal Wear

Maison Margiela, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Samantha Urbani Ivana Wong Person Clothing Dress Adult Wedding Footwear High Heel and Shoe

Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Image may contain Clothing Dress Formal Wear Evening Dress Fashion Adult Person Gown Suit Accessories and Bag

Zuhair Murad, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Person Cape and Clothing

Maison Francesco Scognamiglio, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Stefano Galuzzi / Courtesy of Maison Francesco Scognamiglio

Image may contain Adult Person Clothing Long Sleeve Sleeve Coat Glove Dress Face Head Photography and Portrait

Chanel, fall 2025 couture

Photographed by Acielle / Style Du Monde

Image may contain Cape Clothing Adult Person Fashion Coat and Runway

Armani Privé, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Gabrielle Daleman Performer Person Solo Performance Dancing Leisure Activities Adult and Clothing

Viktor & Rolf, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

Image may contain İsmail Hacıoğlu Face Head Person Photography Portrait Adult Wedding Fashion Clothing and Coat

Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

Photographed by Acielle/Style Du Monde

Image may contain Clothing Long Sleeve Sleeve Adult Person Wedding Dress Coat Fur and Fashion

Giambattista Valli, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Courtesy of Giambattista Valli

Image may contain Clothing Dress Evening Dress Formal Wear Fashion Adult Person Gown Performer and Solo Performance

Iris van Herpen, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Adult Person Clothing Footwear Sandal Skirt Sleeve and Fashion

Maison Margiela, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Chlorophyl Dressing

In a black and white season, green is a sign of hope and new beginnings.

Image may contain Clothing Dress Evening Dress Formal Wear Footwear Sandal Person Adult Shoe Fashion and Gown

Maison Margiela, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Clothing Dress Adult Person Formal Wear Fashion and Evening Dress

Armani Privé, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Sasha Pivovarova Adult Person Clothing Dress Fashion Footwear High Heel Shoe and Formal Wear

Ronald van der Kemp, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Cape Clothing Fashion Adult Person Footwear High Heel Shoe Dress and Cloak

Natan, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Courtesy of Natan

The Lady in Gold

Designers took a shine to Gustav Klimt for fall.

Image may contain Art Painting Adult Person Wedding Clothing Hat Accessories Jewelry and Necklace

Gustav Klimt, Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer I, 1907

Photo: Imagno / Getty Images

Image may contain Ivana Wong Caroline Cellier Clothing Dress Evening Dress Formal Wear Electronics and Mobile Phone

Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Image may contain Person Adult Clothing Footwear Shoe Fashion Blouse Accessories Jewelry and Necklace

Rahul Mishra, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Clothing Dress Footwear Sandal Shoe Person Formal Wear Fashion Costume and Gown

Maison Margiela, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Great Scots

Innovative takes on this traditional weave.

Image may contain Michaela Kocianova Person Adult Wedding Clothing Footwear Shoe Fashion Dress and Formal Wear

Chanel, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Clothing Sleeve Dress Adult Person Fashion Formal Wear Footwear High Heel and Shoe

Julie de Libran, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Chin Up

Dashing collars frame the face.

Image may contain Fashion Accessories Bag Handbag Clothing Dress Adult Person Footwear High Heel and Shoe

Ashi Studio, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Clothing Coat Adult Person Glove Overcoat Face Head Photography Portrait Fashion and Standing

Balenciaga, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

Image may contain Person Adult Clothing Footwear Sandal Accessories Jewelry and Necklace

Ronald van der Kemp, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Clothing Dress Fashion Formal Wear Adult Person Evening Dress Gown Coat Footwear and High Heel

Natan, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Courtesy of Natan

Aura Ring

These clouds are not for storage.

Image may contain Jade Parfitt Fashion Adult Person Clothing Dress Footwear High Heel Shoe and Performer

Iris van Herpen, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Anja Antonowicz Fashion Adult Person Clothing Footwear High Heel Shoe Dress and Formal Wear

Rahul Mishra, fall 2025 couture

Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

Back in Fashion

Make like Missy Elliott and put it reverse.



#Couture #Modern #Fall #Season

Related Posts

Kevin Germanier and Vogue100 Hosted a Couture Week Cocktail at the Ritz

Most of the 21 million viewers who watched the Paris Olympics Closing Ceremony likely didn’t recognize the name Kevin Germanier. Yet it was his shimmering creation, The Golden Voyager, that…

Emily Ratajkowski Debuts A Dramatic Bob And Bangs In ‘Too Much’

Girls fans, rejoice — Lena Dunham is back with a new series. Too Much is out now on Netflix, and it follows Jessica (Megan Stalter), who moves from New York…

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *