For Kartik Research, its second store opening and the first in New York is a homecoming, of sorts — the Indian ready-to-wear indie brand started while Kartik Kumra was studying economics at the University of Pennsylvania.

Born out of “part frustration” and “part not seeing crafts and textiles” from India represented in a way that was both contemporary, modern and tasteful, Kumra’s brand is looking to change that “recontextualizes Indian craftsmanship” by utilizing the skills of independent Indian craftspeople.

“New York’s been our biggest market from the start,” Kumra told WWD. “We opened a store in Delhi last year but this is our first significant foray into retail. When I was in college in Philly, I would come up for the weekend; I’ve done pop-ups with Colbo down the street since I was 20 years old. We’ve been wholesaling through them and a few other retailers around the city for a few years now.”

Those retailers have included Saks Fifth Avenue, Selfridges, 10 Corso Como, Mr. Porter, Dover Street Market in Paris and Ginza, SSENSE and more — but with the new store launch, Kumra has pulled back on his New York distribution to focus on his direct-to-consumer business, which is a large part of Kartik Research’s success story. The brand’s New York sales occur the most on their website, with Kumra projecting the new store will increase DTC sales from 8 percent to 35 percent in the next year.

The brand has cultivated a cult following in New York with its pop-ups at Lower East Side staple, Colbo; it started with menswear enthusiasts and now has expanded into a more diverse customer demographic.

With the looming tariffs and many luxury brands being hit by a slump, Kumra said it’s “concerning and the brand is not immune to economic trends.” While the brand has some conventional luxury consumers, a good amount of its consumer base tends to sway toward aspirational luxury customers who are saving up for pieces.

“The reason why maybe we’re more optimistic is, for the last four or five years, there’s been a disillusionment with traditional luxury. What you see on the runway is one thing and what you see in person is completely different. People have resorted to looking for more interesting, independent and well-made clothing that has a real perspective. That’s where we’ve found our success.”

Speaking about the recent spotlight on the growing Indian fashion market, Kumra said that it’s one that’s been “largely ignored” by the rest of the world and one that requires “lots of noise to be seen.” But making “solid products and doing shows in Paris” has helped make room for his brand to stand out amongst the crowd.

Notably, the brand has dressed celebrities over the years, including Paul Mescal, Lewis Hamilton, Damson Idris for the upcoming “F1” movie and Stephen Curry — who purchased his own Kantha jacket.

The 2024 LVMH Prize semifinalist explained that the store’s opening has been on the brand’s radar for a while now and sees it as a natural progression in the brand’s growth. “We’ve gone into a bunch of incredible retailers. It helps the brand, when you’re starting out, to be close to other brands. But then at some point, you want to take ownership over the way you sell and the way you’re able to communicate.”

The New York store collaborated with Mumbai-based furniture design studio, Aequo, to create various pieces seen throughout the store, such as a wooden straw bench and bamboo dressing room panels — to bring the customers into the world of Indian heritage and craftsmanship while keeping its urban surroundings in view.

Some Aequo pieces are on display and are shoppable in store, while other pieces are Kumra’s own that he’s collected over time. Also on display is a book with his latest fall 2025 collection, created with photographer Jeremy Everett and stylist Julie Ragolia, titled “Amdavad.”

“I’ve been pretty patient in waiting a year for this space to open up. The traffic on this street for the location is the best; it’s the most exciting block now in New York. Stores are popping up here and there’s always events. There’s just a very good energy over here,” said Kumra.