Tate McRae took the stage at Madison Square Garden last week wearing an Hervé Léger set. And then another. And then another. The clamoring crowd of fans averaged between 15 and 18-year-old—please just imagine what their screams sounded like. And they all wore a similar look: Booty shorts and a cropped top and thigh high boots, all in the same vein as the pop star’s Léger outfit, which they covered on their way out of the venue following the concert with an oversized tee from the artist’s merch table.

Hervé Léger seems to be having a moment. Creative director Michelle Ochs reported at a preview that the label’s archive has seen an overwhelming amount of requests, which has in turn inspired others to wear the new pieces she’s designed: McRae, Vanessa Kirby, and Nicole Scherzinger among them. It’s good timing, Léger is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year.

The momentum vintage Léger has found, first online and now IRL, has also informed Ochs’s collections. This season she’s bringing back fabrications from a 1994 collection that utilized mesh overalls and inlays, seen here shirred and draped over a couple of fantastic and very sexy mini dresses.

“I wanted to use this moment,” Ochs said of the ongoing anniversary year, “to honor the past but have it be this new era and new chapter.” Ochs took on Léger two years ago, putting aside her then budding label, Et Ochs, to focus on this revamp wholly. She feels like her work is now paying off. “I worked really hard in the two years to build up the momentum that we’re finally getting,” she said, “and I feel like we’ve got enough collections under our belt and have really set a new tone for the brand.”

Ochs has been clever in the way she’s approached her reinvention. She’s cleaned up the contemporary language of Léger to make it clear and recognizable, and betted on its signatures—namely its cult of the body and the bandage construction—without putting all her eggs in one basket. She’s been a good soldier, too, respecting the built-in customer’s fascination for the bandage dress and delivering new and compelling interpretations season after season. (For spring 2026 that would be the opening dress in this lookbook, which features twisted strips all throughout as a funky riff on the original idea.) What it goes down to, however, is Ochs’s timing. She has a grasp on one thing, which she shares with McRae’s infectious, dancey pop: In Ochs’s own words, “people want to have fun. And,” she added, “we’ve got the dress for you.”