Meruert Tolegen Puts a '90s Spin on Corsetry and Tailoring for Spring 2026

Upon stepping into Meruert Tolegen’s Spring 2026 show, guests were transported to a dimly lit, hazy atmosphere nestled in the brand’s forthcoming SoHo retail space. This ever-present edge grounded in a feminine sensibility permeates throughout the New York-based label’s designs, with its latest collection honing in on intricate tailoring, boned corsetry and voluminous silhouettes.

“I don’t show the tailoring aspect as much, and I wanted to do that this time,” Tolegen told Fashionista backstage. A cream-colored puff-sleeve overcoat, collared blazer and multilayered skirts exemplified this season’s emphasis on tailoring. The 2025 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist also leaned into sculptural shapes via a strapless mini dress with a stiff rounded skirt and corseted undergarment-inspired panniers paired with flowing tulle. Core brand codes like ruffle detailing, hand-knitwear and a moody color palette continued throughout the collection.

Much of Meruert Tolegen’s design mastery lies in the details, as the designer called attention to a peachy nude silk-like slip dress that she smocked with red embroidery to depict a human figure motif. However, Tolegen’s favorite piece from the collection (which she says changes every day) is the final look, a cream jacquard print coat tied together with a simple string that spotlights the label’s tailoring both inside and out.

As a ’90s baby, Tolegen tapped some of the decade’s greatest hits for styling cues, including fishnets, stringy chokers and slicked-back ‘dos. “I had a ’90s mood board for the styling,” Tolegen says. “I just really wanted to bring that back and have these clean silhouettes with hair and makeup and just have a fun time with that ’90s feel with the strings and the ropery.”

Ahead, see every look from the Meruert Tolegen Spring 2026 collection.