Madonna’s famed fifth studio album, Erotica, was released in 1992. At 33 (a Millennial!), it’s slightly older than Gabe Gordon and Timothy Gibbons, the partners, in life and business, behind the label named after the former. Their obsession and deep veneration for this album, together with a few of the other references they listed on Sunday at their spring 2026 show, should be an indication that Gordon and Gibbons are the real deal.

The pair are finalists for the 2025 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and this season was their second on the official show schedule. Gordon and Gibbons took to DCTV, an old firehouse downtown that now operates as a community media center. Right outside its fire hydrant red garage gate, the pair left the carcass of a burnt car—the kind of New York sighting you wouldn’t blink twice in passing were it not Fashion Week—which started steaming as the gate rolled up and the show got underway.

Gordon and Gibbons said that they considered everything from Erotica and American demolition derbies (the aforementioned car outside the show was sourced by their stylist, who knows a guy… you get it) to JG. Ballard’s infamous novel Crash and David Cronenberg’s film based on the tome, which tells the story of a group of symphorophiliacs whose thing is car accidents. “It was… pretty wide ranging,” Gibbons said backstage before the show.

That it was. The pair usually base their collections around horror movies, they said, and often write a plot to follow. They tried something different this time around. Well, a couple things: Gordon and Gibbons are mostly known for their knitwear—which is fun and cool in a very New York way—so this season they tried to push themselves elsewhere. They also tried to become “just a bit more serious.” That is because, they said, their usual motifs of young Americana (as in, varsity or high-school) and the fact that they mostly do knitwear sometimes makes them appear a bit junior. That’s all fair—there’s no fault in wanting to grow up.

But Gordon and Gibbons are young. My advice would be to not try to grow up too fast, just the right amount each time (an impossible balancing act, yes). They can also be both young and serious, which they are—they’ve made it impressively far already. They were at their best this season when they embraced that part of themselves wholly. They make a fantastic knit concoction, be that a stripey, chunky knit or a swingy skirt or roomy dress made of patchworked gray jersey. Their second-skin tees and tanks are flattering and cool. In the newness, the best pieces resembled their knitwear: They hugged the body here and there and then released it via sexy diagonal openings or unexpected cuts. Some pieces were remarkably put together considering, they said, they make 90% of the collection themselves with their team. Think a dress woven with hundreds of upcycled strips of jersey or a top covered in a guess-how-many amount of metallic buttons.