There was a fun retro vibe pulsing through this show, Knwls’ first in Milan. Designers Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault, who usually show during London Fashion Week, made the switch because they’ve been spending more time in Milan, working on other fashion projects, and thought they’d give the city’s fashion week a whirl.

The brand, known for its slim, draped silhouettes, and touches of medieval and Renaissance dress, such as armor and corsetry, also revealed a collaboration with Nike. The duo took Nike’s weatherproof plaids with reflective threads, and spun them into a jacket and matching miniskirt; added nylon and rubber to the Knwls Razr bag; and gave Nike’s Air Max Muse a saucy look with corset lacing.

The collection that came down the runway was youthful and high-energy, with lots of short, swingy skirts, curvy corsets with grosgrain ribbon details and strong-shouldered jackets made from bonded leather and neoprene.

The show began with tougher looks, and a utilitarian, industrial feel – it’s Milan after all. There were tight trousers with tiny kick flares, miniskirts with drawstring waists and dark denim dresses with flippy skirts and criss-cross straps at the back. The venue was a concrete industrial space on via Tortona, and models walked past a wall of flouro light, adding to the “Mad Max” mood.

The tough looks later gave way to softer ones with Renaissance flair. Fluttery dresses had pouf shoulders and sleeves while sharp knit tops came with delicate draping around each shoulder. A dusty pink dress with a corset bodice and long, gathered sleeves was a standout, and chimed with the paintings of rich Renaissance ladies at the Poldi Pezzoli Museum in downtown Milan.   

It’s only been one season, but it looks like these designers have found a groove in Milan, where industry, history – and style – are old friends.