
There was a film noir mood to this collection, with fierce-looking ladies striding around in oversized, tucked and layered trench coats, and towering python platforms with spiky heels.
In typical noir style, nothing was as it seemed. Those trenches hid slinky lingerie, lacy bodysuits, and teeny bras paired with low-slung pencil skirts – and lots of flesh.
Models walked through a series of doorways, part of a labyrinth set that was organized like a maze, while the soundtrack featured scratchy static-y sounds, adding to the sense of sexual intrigue.
The designers, Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, saw this season’s woman as “indomitable,” complex, and full of contradictions, so it’s no surprise this collection took in everything from oversized tailoring to knitwear and racy lingerie.
Voluminous jackets with strong shoulders came in magnified black and white houndstooth, tuxedo styles and C-suite gray, and the designers layered them over bright, lacy bra tops with flirty ribbons, bows and ruffles at the front.
The designers paired oversized trenches and nipped-waist suits with shirts that were left seductively unbuttoned, or with their pussy bows undone. This lady exec has more than spreadsheets on her mind.
Sheer, lacy slip dresses, silky camisole tops and slender knits in a delectable palette of mint, chocolate and cinnamon screamed va-va-voom, and made Victoria’s Secret look positively frumpy.
Ambrosio and Tordini tried to show the many sides of the modern woman, but they muddled the message. What they sent out was a caricature of a woman with a one-track mind, and lots of time in her day to work on the art of seduction.
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