As always, Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski was thinking about equestrian style, but this time the mood was more freewheeling than formal, and there was a sexual frisson in the air. She was thinking about the Camargue in southwestern France, known for its marshes, sand banks, flamingos and work horses that are used to herd bulls.

“It’s also a land of bohemians, gypsies – and freedom. I wanted to bring this zest of freedom to equestrian style, which is often associated with the strict and the rational. I wanted to let go and give it a sense of spontaneity and fullness,” said the designer.

It was a polished lineup – this is Hermès, after all – but there was a sporty, flirty edge, with lots of curve-hugging silhouettes, short shorts, and harness and corset details. The runway was covered in sand and scattered with seashells and the models who crossed it were nothing short of hot.

They wore caramel colored leather coats and minidresses with corset lacing at the back, itsy-bitsy leather shorts with apron fronts, leather harnesses and halter tops.

A strappy, red leather top and matching trousers and a quilted silk dress worn over bicycle shorts both flashed the flesh, as did a white cotton trench left open to reveal a matching halter top and harness. Va va voom.

Other outerwear was more demure, including the patchwork cotton coat with a nipped waist that opened the show, all of the ankle-sweeping styles and a lineup of cognac leather buckle-front jackets and coats. The color was divine, and the surface high-shine. Vanhée-Cybulski said the leather was hand-polished using special wax usually reserved for saddles.

A lineup of breezy, printed dresses and scarves made with Hermès silk were meant to capture the billowing clothes and hair of women on horseback. Vanhée-Cybulski layered the long scarves under the harness top of a sandy cotton suit, and whipped the silk into a blouse with pagoda sleeves and matching bustier.

There was a lightness to it all – no easy feat for a leather-based brand – and a fun subversion of equestrian dress.