In our long-running series, “How I’m Making It,” we talk to people making a living in the fashion and beauty industries about how they broke in and found success.

Rokh founder Rok Hwang’s journey to becoming the accomplished fashion designer he is today is nothing short of impressive. After relocating to the States from South Korea as a child, Hwang moved to London and attended the esteemed Central Saint Martins in 2004. There, he won first prize in the school’s graduation collections competition, leading Phoebe Philo, then the creative director of Celine, to scout him for a position on her team.

“It was quite magical,” Hwang tells Fashionista. “I was very lucky to jump straight into the industry and experience Phoebe’s first show at Celine. One of the most important lessons I learned from her is the importance of knowing who you’re dressing.”

Hwang spent several years under Philo, then worked as a freelance designer at Chloé and Louis Vuitton before launching his self-named label, Rokh, in 2016.

“It was massively challenging, to be honest. But [the early years of Rokh] are some of the most fun and enjoyable memories I have,” Hwang says. “Those years were about finding the brand DNA, our core silhouettes and codes that could define Rokh.”

From the jump, Hwang had a knack for edgier, more structured takes on traditionally feminine silhouettes (not unlike Philo). While it can take emerging brands a long time to find their footing, Hwang’s early experience in the industry allowed him to launch his brand with already-polished designs. Nearly a decade later, Rokh is a more realized, cleaner version of itself, focusing largely on classic pieces with unconventional-yet-timeless tailoring. 

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Hwang admits he’s “still searching” for a solid way to define the brand’s DNA, but acknowledges the growth in his most recent collections: “I think our last two-to-three shows have really worked. There’s been a little shift from my previous shows. I’ve been working more on the artsy side. I’ve always loved sculptures and ceramics and wanted to apply those [techniques] to crafting the garments.” 

For Fall 2025, for instance, Hwang presented camel-colored trench coats in various inventive shapes and styles. Some pieces transformed into a mesmerizing cape at the hem, while others were covered in floral appliques and leather details.

“Using lots of trench materials or even a bomber jacket or archetype of existing clothing and shifting that into a completely different form is what I find quite interesting,” says Hwang.

Those same ideas bleed into Hwang’s latest project — his second collaboration with GU, Uniqlo’s more affordable sister brand. In the capsule, a cropped trench-style jacket with winged sleeves accompanies light-wash barrel jeans, bow-adorned peplum blouses, frilly rugby shirts and prairie dresses. Though there’s a clear synergy between Rokh’s ready-to-wear collections and the collaborations with GU, Hwang thinks of the two as “separate stories.”

“Of course, there are some ideas coming from my brand, but it’s more about me designing for the GU customer,” he explains. “I wanted to build a language through GU that could still be very playful and artistic, but also very wearable; that way the pieces can be mixed and matched with [people’s] existing wardrobes.”

Partnering with major retailers like GU and H&M has become a key strategy for Rokh’s brand visibility and accessibility. “I love that we get to share something that is creative and beautiful with a bigger audience,” Hwang says.

Ahead, Hwang shares more about working with GU, the impact of winning the LVMH special prize in 2018, his future goals for the Rokh brand and more.

What is your earliest fashion memory?

My earliest memory would be growing up in Austin, Texas. I was in a suburban area and there wasn’t much fashion influence there. But I still remember seeing a lot of rich tapestries and domestic Americana-type floral prints — even the beautiful sunsets. I still use those ideas and color palettes from my memories in my work. But it wasn’t until I moved to London at 19 years old that I realized I wanted to be a fashion designer.

How did your education at Central Saint Martins influence your work?

Being around my peers and all the energy that is around the school and the London scene really influenced me. One of my classmates was Simone Rocha. Being around those amazing talents and discussing our different cultural points of view made me open my eyes and explore my own unique perspective more. I see fashion as a way to express something very unique and moving. I don’t think fashion is only about style. It really comes with deep study.

You won the first prize for Central Saint Martins’ graduate collections. What was it like receiving that recognition so early in your career?

When I was first graduating, I think actually winning those titles made me even more nervous, to be honest. I put a lot of pressure on myself and was working so hard to jump into my career straight away. When I think about it more, though, it allowed me to meet and engage with experienced people in the industry. I wouldn’t say there was any advantage, but it was more about having self-awareness and somehow [that] made me more nervous to jump into the industry with that kind of status.

You did end up jumping right into the industry following graduation, working for Phoebe Philo at Celine. What was that experience like?

She taught me to really think about who I am designing for. She designed for women and would try on so many things herself. I learned that you have to understand the person you’re designing for. For me, my main inspiration comes from the people I see on the street. I’m very interested in how people are really daring. Sometimes I see people mix skirts and jeans or wear old vintage leather jackets in their own ways. I like it when things are customized and more chaotic.

Two years into launching Rokh, you won the special runner-up LVMH prize. What were the benefits of winning that award?

It was in the very early stages of my business, so my team and I weren’t expecting to win anything. It really helped us to share the brand with the world and have people understand. That validation was a helpful gateway to the world. It also led me to do my own show in Paris, which was part of my dream. I was very honored and lucky to be able to do that.

How did you decide to show during Paris Fashion Week?

I always wanted to present my work during Paris Fashion Week. Once the business reached a point where we had more success and growth, I decided to just do it. There was never going to be a right moment and I was certainly not fully ready, but I just wanted to jump in, so I did.

What made you want to begin this partnership with GU?

I really wanted to make our customer happy — it’s as simple as that. I want to create something beautiful and fun that our customers are able to enjoy. At Rokh, sometimes we have to make difficult things that are not technically commercial and can only be produced in very exclusive quantities. But with GU, we are able to make something that customers need and can bring a sense of happiness to the world. That’s the beauty of it and I really enjoy working with the GU team.

Do you have a favorite piece from the new collaboration?

It’s really hard to choose because I think it looks so different on everybody. I really love this utility stripe half-sleeve shirt that is slightly oversized and boxy. But when I see them on men, it looks so different from when I see them on women. I think that’s the fun part — is seeing each design on different shapes and bodies. It’s always changing. Every piece kind of sings in its own way.

What would you say are some of the biggest challenges facing young designers today?

So many. I would say finding your own perspective and balancing it out to understand how to merchandise and commercialize your work to an audience is one of the most challenging things.

Where do you see your brand in the next five to 10 years?

We want to have a more unique positioning in the industry and connect more with the customers. So that means more retail, but also creating a kind of cultural hub to more deeply interact with viewers of the brand. That’s my hope and dream.

What advice would you give someone who’s just starting out?

I’m still learning myself. But I think it’s all about staying true to yourself and being consistent. I still have to remind myself of that every day.

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